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Positive Pro-Ageing - transforming the ageing process by using the correct skin care products

Updated: Jun 12, 2022

The Science Bit!

The skin is the largest organ of the body and is subject to constant change. It protects the body from microbes, the elements (in that it is waterproof), helps to regulate body temperature (through sweating or shivering) and is sensitive and responsive to sensations such as heat and cold.

The skin is made up for 3 distinct layers, these being the epidermis (approximately 0.2mm thick), the dermis (approximately 2-3 mm thick) and the subcutaneous layer, also known as the hypodermis (approximately 4-9mm thick).


Collagen, Elastin Fibres and GAG’s

Collagen fibres account for 70% of the dermis and give it it’s strength and resistance. Of this 70%, Type 1 accounts for 80% (this lowers as skin ages) and Type III accounts for 15%.

The elastin fibres supply elastic properties to the skin. In the papillary dermis, the elastin fibres, known as oxytalyn, are mostly perpendicular to the surface of the skin.

The reticular dermis makes up the greater part of the dermis and within this layer the collagen and elastin fibres run in all directions.

Glycosaminoglycans (GAG’s) are essential for cellular metabolism and maintaining the connective tissues in good condition. GAG’s can bind water up to 1000 times their own volume. The most important GAG component is hyaluronic acid (HA). As we age, the density of this HA decreases. This is also found with photo damaged skin.


The rejuvenation skin cycle

This cycle of cell production and replacement slows as we age. It takes about 28 days for the average, middle-aged adult. As we grow older, this skin cycle slows to about 45-60 days in our 40's and 50's. It can further slow to about 60-90 days in our 50's and 60's. As this process slows, dead cells accumulate on the surface of skin causing sagging and collapse of structure or what we see as lines, wrinkles, and deeper folds. Bacteria can become trapped causing blemishes and breakouts. Discoloured and irregular cells can also become trapped causing spots, discoloration, and sometimes more serious skin conditions. This is why, as we get older, our skin can look dull, tired, dry, discoloured and may start to have break-outs.

Skin Rejuvenation Cycle Age Turnover Cycle Infants/Children 3-5 days Teens 10-21 days 20's 14-21 days 30's 28-45 days 40's 45-60 days 50's+ 60-90+ days

Other factors can affect the skin cycle, including hormones, nutrition, sun exposure, illness and stress.


Intrinsic Factors:

Genetics and Inheritance

Skin regeneration capacity

Photo sensitivity

Free Radicals reactivity

Extrinsic Factors

Sun Exposure – represents more than 90% of extrinsic ageing

·Skin regeneration capacity

UVA: long wave: tanning & ageing

·Photo sensitivity

UVB: sun burn

·Free radicals’ reactivity

UVC: short wave - carcinogenic

Hormones

Menopause, HGH growth hormones, DHEA, melatonin (wrinkles and drying out)

Acne, testosterone (sebum, dilated pores, scars)

Pregnancy – pigment disorders

Stress

Tobacco (strong sebaceous secretions)

Pollution

Diet (especially sugary or fatty foods that cause glycation of the proteins)

Alcohol = dilated pores

Malnutrition

Bad blood circulation

Rosacea

The secret to positive pro-ageing


When the outer surface of skin is made of newer skin cells, skin feels softer and looks more luminous with less lines and imperfections. By maintaining an average 28-day or faster replacement cycle through healthy lifestyle choices and a regular skin care routine that addresses the basics of skin, the skin will appear smoother and more youthful. (http://www.skinauthority.com/Skin-Explained)


So, how do we do this?

What products support pro-ageing?

ACIDS that help remove the dulling, dead skin cells that make skin looked aged are vitally important in your daily skin care routine. Glycolic Acid, an AHA acid, does this job perfectly and is found in many products (for more detailed guidance about what acids to choose in your skincare regime, visit our Blog HERE).


COLLAGEN stimulators are needed to help kick-start collagen synthesis, which drops by 30% during menopause (see our blog all about The Menopause and Ageing Skin HERE). The most popular and effective methods of stimulating collagen are via radio frequency treatments, skin needling and skin boosters. All of these in-clinic treatments help the body destroy old collagen and boost fibroblast activity to stimulate the synthesis of new, strong, healthy collagen (and elastin fibres) that bring back skin elasticity, firmness and therefore structure, resulting in a more youthful appearance, with less lines and wrinkles.


Knowing our cosmetics from our cosmeceuticals

The word 'cosmeceutical' is now quite commonly known, especially in the arena of skin care products. But what does it actually mean? A cosmeceutical product is a hybrid mix of a cosmetic (those products found in the high street and can be bought over-the-counter), and a pharmaceutical product (one that is prescribed by a health care professional). A cosmeceutical product is a medical-grade skincare product that are available in clinic setting and recommended or 'prescribed' under the guidance of a qualified skincare practitioner.


So why is there such an interest in cosmeceuticals in today's skincare arena?

The reason for this is simple. Cosmeceuticals are more effective than cosmetics on improving skin, due to their active ingredients and ability to work on the skin at a cellular level. Cosmeceuticals tend to use higher percentages of active ingredients than cosmetics, enabling the products to penetrate deeper into the skin and effectively tackle common conditions and complaints, such as ageing or problem skin (acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation). Caution must be advised though. These stronger products, if used too quickly or excessively, can cause the skin to react adversely. Therefore, expert guidance should be sought and followed when deciding to reach for these wonder products to boost your skin quality and confidence. A great combination that are used to tackle the most common signs of ageing and common skin conditions are those of Vitamin A, Vitamin C and AHA's (alpha hydroxy acids), due to their ability to to increase cellular turnover, act as anti-oxidants and enable other products to penetrate the skin.


Are they value for money?

The answer to this is yes! The price range of cosmeceuticals can vary from comparable to high street 'off-the-shelf' cosmetics to a quite high price point but, the quantity that is needed to get the results is quite small. The secret is to follow a regular routine. It is the repetition of using these products on a daily basis that gives the rewards we seek. They are powerful, they do a fabulous job at improving the skin and helping you achieve your skin goals but they do need to be used on a daily basis and given time. When I work closely with my T, we explore how long they have had their skin concerns for, helping to highlight the time is takes to reverse the sings of ageing and fix common skin complaints and conditions.


A Vitamin Diet for your Skin


VITAMINS are a must-have part of your pro-ageing tool kit. VITAMIN A is a powerful antioxidant. It contains retinol which helps stimulate cell regeneration to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and age spots. Vitamin A can lead to skin sun sensitivity and must only be used at night, starting from once a week then building up to 2 or 3 times a week due to it's potent effect.

VITAMIN B3 is essential in preventing and reversing signs of skin redness, pigment changes and general skin ageing. Vitamin B3 can be used as your daily moisturiser and is especially good if your skin feels dry, irritated or flushed or you are suffering from breakout and can be combined with Vitamin A to combat any skin dryness caused by Vitamin A. Vitamin B is excellent for those who suffer from rosacea and chronic redness

VITAMIN C will brighten up even the dullest skin and is fantastic in hydrating and moisturising your skin. It is a HERO Vitamin, and is key for collagen synthesis and can be used in combination with Vitamin B3 morning and night.

For more information about vitamins and why they are so beneficial to our skin, have a look at our other blogs (Vitamin D - our 'sun' vitamin friend,, Vitamin E, our fat soluble friend, Vitamin A, our anti-ageing super hero, and Vitamin B12, why we need it)


SERUMS! The first thing to put on in the morning!



Serums are fantastic! They are concentrated forms of ingredients and they really feed the skin due to being loaded with lots of active ingredeints. VITA C SERUM for photo-aged, dehydrated skin with fine lines and wrinkles is a powerful triple action Vitamin C Complex that visibly brightens the skin whilst increasing collagen synthesis.

HYDRA SERUM contains active ingredients that intensively hydrate the deepest skin layers, making it excellent for dehydrated, dry and lined skin.

MELA SERUM is a corrective serum, whose active ingredients even out skin tone and reduce hyper-pigmentation, leaving skin looking healthy and hydrated


THE BEFORE AND AFTERS!

Double cleansing using a good cleanser with acids in it will help speed up skin renewal and open up the skin to receive the benefits of the vitamins, serums and actives. SPF30+ is a MUST! If it is day time, then the sun is out and the biggest cause of ageing is from the sun. Always use a SPF, even if you are indoors, and stop that sun damage in its tracks!


HOW DO WE ADD THESE ALL TOGETHER?


We recommend the following protocol:

Morning:

Double Cleanse

Tone

Serum

Vitamin Moisturiser

(Active treatment is you are having one)

SPF

Make-up ..... and you're good-to-go!


Evening:

Double Cleanse

Tone

Vitamin Mask or Moisturiser

(Active treatment if you are having one)

Serum

Sleep!


If you would like to receive our FREE GUDIE to skin confidence, then just visit our homepage HERE, complete the form and it will be emailed to you.


If you would like to have an in-clinic consultation and skin analysis with our Registered Nurse and skin care expert, a treatment and a starter box of cosmeceuticals tailored to your skin's needs then follow THIS LINK and book your CONSULTATION.

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