Updated: Jun 21
The skin is the largest organ of the body and is subject to constant change. It protects the body from microbes, the elements (in that it is waterproof), helps to regulate body temperature (through sweating or shivering) and is sensitive and responsive to sensations such as heat and cold.
The skin is made up for 3 distinct layers, these being the epidermis (approximately 0.2mm thick), the dermis (approximately 2-3 mm thick) and the subcutaneous layer, also known as the hypodermis (approximately 4-9mm thick).
Collagen, Elastin Fibres and GAG’s
Collagen fibres account for 70% of the dermis and give it it’s strength and resistance. Of this 70%, Type 1 accounts for 80% (this lowers as skin ages) and Type III accounts for 15%.
The elastin fibres supply elastic properties to the skin. In the papillary dermis, the elastin fibres, known as oxytalyn, are mostly perpendicular to the surface of the skin.
The reticular dermis makes up the greater part of the dermis and within this layer the collagen and elastin fibres run in all directions.
Glycosaminoglycans (GAG’s) are essential for cellular metabolism and maintaining the connective tissues in good condition. GAG’s can bind water up to 1000 times their own volume. The most important GAG component is hyaluronic acid (HA). As we age, the density of this HA decreases. This is also found with photo damaged skin.
The rejuvenation skin cycle
This cycle of cell production and replacement slows as we age. It takes about 28 days for the average, middle-aged adult. As we grow older, this skin cycle slows to about 45-60 days in our 40's and 50's. It can further slow to about 60-90 days in our 50's and 60's. As this process slows, dead cells accumulate on the surface of skin causing sagging and collapse of structure or what we see as lines, wrinkles, and deeper folds. Bacteria can become trapped causing blemishes and breakouts. Discoloured and irregular cells can also become trapped causing spots, discoloration, and sometimes more serious skin conditions. This is why, as we get older, our skin can look dull, tired, dry, discoloured and may start to have break-outs.
Skin Rejuvenation Cycle Age Turnover Cycle Infants/Children 3-5 days Teens 10-21 days 20's 14-21 days 30's 28-45 days 40's 45-60 days 50's+ 60-90+ days
Other factors can affect the skin cycle, including hormones, nutrition, sun exposure, illness and stress.
Intrinsic Factors Extrinsic Factors
Genetics & Inheritance Sun Exposure – represents more than 90% of extrinsic ageing
· Skin regeneration capacity UVA: long wave: tanning & ageing
· Photo sensitivity UVB: sun burn
· Free radicals’ reactivity UVC: short wave - carcinogenic
Menopause, HGH growth hormones, DHEA, melatonin (wrinkles and drying out)
Acne, testosterone (sebum, dilated pores, scars)
Pregnancy – pigment disorders
Tobacco (strong sebaceous secretions)
Alcohol = dilated pores
Bad blood circulation
The secret to pro-ageing
When the outer surface of skin is made of newer skin cells, skin feels softer and looks more luminous with less lines and imperfections. By maintaining an average 28-day or faster replacement cycle through healthy lifestyle choices and a regular skin care routine that addresses the basics of skin, the skin will appear smoother and more youthful. (http://www.skinauthority.com/Skin-Explained)
What products support pro-ageing?
ACIDS that help remove the dulling, dead skin cells that make skin looked aged are vitally important in your daily skin care routine. Glycolic Acid, an AHA acid, does this job perfectly and is found in many products, such as the Fillmed Glycopeel Mask.
COLLAGEN stimulators are needed to help kick-start collagen synthesis, which drops by 30% during menopause. Pyruvic Acid is a powerful alpha keto acid, found in pHformula's A.G.E. and A.C.T.I.V.E skin resurfacing products that stimulates collagen, elastin and glycoproteins.
A Vitamin Diet for your Skin
VITAMINS are a must-have part of your pro-ageing tool kit. VITAMIN A is a powerful antioxidant. It contains retinol which helps stimulate cell regeneration to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and age spots. Vitamin A can lead to skin sun sensitivity and must only be used at night, starting from once a week then building up to 2 or 3 times a week due to it's potent effect.
VITAMIN B3 is essential in preventing and reversing signs of skin redness, pigment changes and general skin ageing. Vitamin B3 can be used as your daily moisturiser and is especially good if your skin feels dry, irritated or flushed or you are suffering from breakout and can be combined with Vitamin A to combat any skin dryness caused by Vitamin A. Vitamin B is excellent for those who suffer from rosacea and chronic redness
VITAMIN C will brighten up even the dullest skin and is fantastic in hydrating and moisturising your skin. It is a HERO Vitamin, and is key for collagen synthesis and can be used in combination with Vitamin B3 morning and night.
SERUMS! The first thing to put on in the morning!
Serums are fantastic! They are concentrated forms of ingredients and they really feed the skin due to being loaded with lots of active ingredeints. VITA C SERUM for photo-aged, dehydrated skin with fine lines and wrinkles is a powerful triple action Vitamin C Complex that visibly brightens the skin whilst increasing collagen synthesis.
HYDRA SERUM contains active ingredients that intensively hydrate the deepest skin layers, making it excellent for dehydrated, dry and lined skin.
MELA SERUM is a corrective serum, whose active ingredients even out skin tone and reduce hyper-pigmentation, leaving skin looking healthy and hydrated
THE BEFORE AND AFTERS!
Double cleansing using a good cleanser with acids in it will help speed up skin renewal and open up the skin to receive the benefits of the vitamins, serums and actives. SPF30+ is a MUST! If it is day time, then the sun is out and the biggest cause of ageing is from the sun. Always use a SPF, even if you are indoors, and stop that sun damage in its tracks!
HOW DO WE ADD THESE ALL TOGETHER?
We recommend the following protocol:
(Active treatment is you are having one)
Make-up ..... and you're good-to-go!
Vitamin Mask or Moisturiser
(Active treatment if you are having one)